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Georgia

Georgia (part 2): Between Vineyards and Monasteries

Thursday, May 24th 2018, we arrived in Tbilisi, the capital of the country, where we stayed almost a week. A vibrant, charming and amazing city. The city is a unique architectural blend combining Byzantine, Persian, European and Russian inspirations.

Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Tbilisi. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Tbilisi.
Clock Tower of the puppet theatre Rezo Gabriadze in the old town of Tbilisi.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Tbilisi Trinity Cathedral. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi.
Trinity Cathedral.

We enjoyed walking in the cobbled streets of the old town, admiring the old houses with carved wooden balconies, the fortress of Narikala and the many churches dating from the 6th to the 13th centuries. The city also has baths of sulfur, springs of natural hot water, considered a remedy against many diseases (but we did not go, a little too expensive for us!). Saturday, May 26th, we were here for the great national holiday celebrating 100 years of Georgia’s independence from the Transcaucasian Democratic Federative Republic, marking the end of Russian domination which lasted 117 years since 1801.

Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Tbilisi. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Tbilisi.
The Kura River and the citadel of Narikala on the heights far behind.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Peace Bridge in Tbilisi. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, the Bridge of Peace in Tbilisi.
The Bridge of Peace.

At this point of the trip we no longer count the number of times Arthur has broken one, two or three spokes on his wheel. Once in Tbilisi, we decided to change all spokes by thicker and more resistant spokes. We’ll see, and as we say, Inch’allah it’ll hold. Goodbye and thank you Tbilisi. Hello, Kakheti.

But Georgia is also and especially the country of wine. Recognized as the “cradle of wine growing” by UNESCO, the country has a rich and atypical vineyard. Wine plays a central role in the daily lives of the inhabitants and many Georgians produce their own homemade wine according to the traditional method of storing wine in large earthenware jars buried in the ground.

Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Nekressi Monastery. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Nekresi Monastery.
Clay jars buried in the ground, where the wine was stored (traditional Georgian ancestral method).

Our road thus continued through the vineyards of the Kakheti region in the southeast part of the country. We first had to climb the Gombori pass at 1620m of altitude. When we arrived at the summit, we were greeted by the applause of a tourists’ group from South of France, very admiring of our effort and our journey. This hard climb up done, we went down into the valley.

Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, climb the slope to 12% by bike. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, climbing the slope.
A nice slope, for fun!
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, cow at a bus stop. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, cow at a bus stop.
She’s still waiting for the bus, but it’s not coming!
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, on the road under the trees. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, on the road under the trees.
A beautiful alley of plane trees, it feels good when the sun shines all the time!

We have cycled through the fields admiring both the vineyards and the numerous monasteries including the monastery of Ikalto and Alaverdi, founded in the 6th Century, the Citadel and Church of Gremi, as well as the perched monastery of Nekressi which offers a splendid view of the Alazani Valley.

Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Ikalto Monastery. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Ikalto Monastery.
Monastery of Ikalto.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Alaverdi Monastery. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Alaverdi Monastery.
Monastery of Alaverdi.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Alaverdi Monastery. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Alaverdi Monastery.
Monastery of Alaverdi.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Alaverdi Monastery. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Alaverdi Monastery.
Pants is mandatory in order to enter the church.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, in a church. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, inside a church.
Amen!
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Gremi Church of the Archangels. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Gremi Church of Archangels.
Church of the Archangels of Gremi.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Alazani Valley. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Alazani Valley.
Alazani Valley, seen from the monastery of Nekressi.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, in a church. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, inside a church.
Making a vow.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, with Rezo. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, with Rezo.
That evening, we asked Rezo (on the left) to put our tent near his hut, he of course accepted and even offered us a bottle of 2, 5l of his house wine.
Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, bivouac surrounded by a herd of pigs at Kvemo Alvani. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, bivouac surrounded by pigs in Kvemo Alvani.
When you wake up and you’re surrounded by a herd of pigs, it looks like that !

Saturday, June 2, 2018, it rained all night and facing Lake Ilia where we had set our tent, a young Dutch couple travelling in their camper came to offer us coffee. They probably took pity on us, sheltered under the external roof of a restaurant trying to dry our tent. That coffee warmed our day, and we were happy to talk with other travelers.

Bike trip, Georgia Cycling, Lake Ilia. Travel by bike, cycling Georgia, Ilia Lake.
Lake Ilia.

We hit the road during a thinning, but we were quickly caught up by a heavy rain that didn’t stop for the rest of the day. So we decided to hitchhike and after three vans and a little wait, we arrived to the town of Lagodekhi near the border with Azerbaijan. We spent the night in a guesthouse (€10 the room) and the next morning it’s full of beautiful memories that we were able to cross the border dry and rested. On our way to new adventures, towards Azerbaijan!

Don’t miss anything of our trip, you can also follow us on our Facebook page Vélo-Aventure and on Instagram : Johns. Yasmine.

See you soon!

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